At a small restaurant called Yang’s Kitchen on the banks of the Heilongjiang River, the table was filled with dishes, all of which emitted a peculiar yet refreshing bitterness. The distinct scent came from a herb known as xiangcai.

However, xiangcai is an herb that divides people—some love it and can’t get enough of it, while others can’t stand even the smallest leaf. The guests at this particular table were among those who couldn’t tolerate it. They had even politely asked for the dishes to be prepared without it.

Yet...

"If there’s no xiangcai, it’s not a proper Northeast dish. …