When Chung opens his eyes, the dark tent feels quite chilly, and white breath escapes into the air. It is indeed the coldest just before sunrise. If it feels chilly to Chung, it means the weather is no ordinary cold.

Having endured the winter in a thin cotton layer that allows the river breeze and people's gazes to pass through, Chung has had his fair share of cold.

Of course, the weather in Hubei is warm enough that not a single day throughout the year sees water freeze. The sharp winds bring down the perceived temperature, making it uncomfortable, but …